'What's even in Kağızman,' you say — then you drop into the valley and change your mind: apple orchards, roads running out toward the plain, and air a touch softer than the rest of Kars. Sit at the orchard's edge or take a lap through the market — your choice. Not sure? Don't overthink it, give the dice a spin; whether you land on the orchard or the market, neither one asks much of you.